Every year Central Otago Pinot Noir Ltd (COPNL) hosts a select group of wine professionals. Over four days our guests are immersed in Central Otago and gain a unique insight into the wine, the people and the stunning Central Otago landscape. An experience they will never forget. Many new relationships are established and renewed.
This year we enjoyed hosting a lively group of influential wine professionals including some of the top sommeliers and fine wine consultants from Sweden, Germany, Singapore, Sydney, Melbourne, Auckland and Wellington.
One of the themes we look at is the influence of each Central Otago sub-region on Pinot Noir character. Within Central Otago each sub-region has a slightly different climate due to its distance from the Southern Alps, altitude and the local geography. To look at the sub-regions our guests travel as a group, getting into the vineyards, talking with the people who grow the grapes and make the wine, and tasting a selection of wines grouped in a way to show off the local sub-region.
During the event all four vintages of Grasshopper Rock Pinot Noir were tasted. 2007 and 2008 were part of a sub-regional line up, 2006 was served at a lunch and 2009 at a dinner at the Cardrona Hotel.
The highlight for me was the Alexandra sub-regional tasting. The venue was a secluded function centre in Conroy’s Gully. Conroy’s Gully is near Grasshopper Rock vineyard and in the late 1800s was an important gold mining area. Now it can claim to adjoin the southern most Pinot Noir vineyards in the world.

Conroys Tasting July 2011 (Photo Mohamad Fazil)
The Alexandra sub-regional tasting focused on the 2007 and 2008 vintages. Grasshopper Rock, Three Miners and Two Paddocks vineyards showed their 2007 and 2008 Pinot Noir. These were two very different vintages in Alexandra due to the weather. The spring of 2006 was cold and flowering and fruit set was badly affected. The result was small berries, small bunches and very low crop levels. The 2007 wines show a level of intensity that is not found in the more normal or favourable vintages we experience. The 2008 vintage was more normal (if there is such a thing).
The Alexandra tasting was very interesting. The wines for 2007 and 2008 have now had a bit more time to mature in the bottle and with extra time they really start to show their own character. At the tasting winemaker Dean Shaw famously described the Alexandra Pinot Noir as elegant and what he would call “pussy wines” - a new descriptor for elegant and restrained Pinot Noir. To me the two Grasshopper Rock wines really stood out as being of the terroir. The Grasshopper Rock Pinots were not better or worse than the other two vineyards but they could very strongly be identified as Grasshopper Rock.
I am very excited about this because this is exactly what great Pinot Noir can do. It is very strongly connected to the land where it is grown and the people who work the land and the vines. In France this is terroir and there is no one-word english translation.
When Jeanni Cho Lee MW asked Michel Rolland, one of the leading consultant winemakers in Bordeaux, how he defined terroir in English, he replied, “All places have terroir. Simply viewed, it is the place where the vines are grown – it includes the climate, the soil, the specific vineyard conditions – everything! The more important question is, which place has great terroir. Now that takes generations to discover.”
I think Central Otago will discover a number of its vineyards have great terroir much more quickly than the 100s of years spoken about in the Old World winegrowing regions.
This tasting says to me Grasshopper Rock really may have great terroir. We have a Pinot Noir which is distinctive and characteristic of the vineyard. It is a wine that people will remember and return to knowing its main the characteristics will always be there.
Recently a winemaker who worked on our wine and is now a Pinot Noir winemaker in Oregon said to me, “I always love tasting your wine. It is still the most distinct vineyard I have ever worked with, and I do hope to work with it again!”
Another highlight of having our visitors is the opportunity to taste some Central Otago Pinot Noir which have a bit more age such as wines from 2002 to 2005. These wines are always some of the highlights of the tastings. This year guests tasted Gibbston Valley Pinot Noir 1990 one of the very first Central Otago Pinot produced in saleable quantities and still apparently (I didn’t taste it) a remarkable wine.
After a stimulating few days everyone goes back to their real jobs but we have two exciting Pinot Noir events to look forward to with Pinot Celebration 2012 and Pinot Noir 2013.
Phil Handford
08/08/11